Got a crane cam and I don't feel like pulling the engine out or completely removing the head(and all the crap attached) to put it another cam. My ride is a 1999 jeep cherokee 4.0LJeep 4.0, cam change, completely remove the head or can you just take out the distributor and pushrods?if you can do it without pulling the engine, you are a good man and a better mechanic than me.Jeep 4.0, cam change, completely remove the head or can you just take out the distributor and pushrods?You have to pull at least the intake and the rocker arms, because you have to remove the lifters to get the cam in and out. It can be done in the car, but you have have to remove the radiator, A/C condensor, etc, to get clearance.Jeep 4.0, cam change, completely remove the head or can you just take out the distributor and pushrods?should be able to just take off the intake,the pushrods and lifters,and the timing cover,check the cam bearings if they're scored you will have to replace the bearings and with the tools you will need you may wanna take the engine out and have the bearings replaced by a machine shop.if not be extremely careful taking the old one out and putting the new cam in,you can score the bearings,dont forget to set the timing a little off i think it would be to retard the timing by 3 degreesJeep 4.0, cam change, completely remove the head or can you just take out the distributor and pushrods?!
HOWEVER-Now that i went ot the Alldata site and looked the procedure up, there's not enough room to get the lifters out without pulling the head-which really isn't that big a deal on that JeepJeep 4.0, cam change, completely remove the head or can you just take out the distributor and pushrods?1999 Jeep Truck Cherokee 4WD L6-4.0L VIN S
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Camshaft Service and Repair
Service and Repair
Notes
The content of this article reflects changes called for in TSB 26-11-98.
REMOVAL
WARNING: THE COOLANT IN A RECENTLY OPERATED ENGINE IS HOT AND PRESSURIZED. RELEASE THE PRESSURE BEFORE REMOVING THE DRAIN COCK, CAP AND DRAIN PLUGS.
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Drain the cooling system. DO NOT waste reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain it into a clean container for reuse.
Remove the radiator or radiator and condenser, if equipped with A/C (refer to Cooling System for the proper procedure).
Remove the distributor cap and mark the position of the rotor.
Remove the distributor and ignition wires.
Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
Remove the push rods.
Remove the engine cylinder head and gasket.
Remove the hydraulic valve tappets from the engine cylinder block.
Remove the vibration damper.
Remove the timing case cover.
Remove the timing chain and sprockets.
Remove the front bumper and/or grille, as required.
Fig. 43
Remove the two thrust plate retaining screws, thrust plate, and camshaft.
INSTALLATION
Inspect the cam lobes for wear.
Inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear pattern or finish.
Inspect the bearings for wear.
Inspect the distributor drive gear for wear.
If the camshaft appears to have been rubbing against the thrust washer, examine the oil pressure relief holes in the rear cam journal. The oil pressure relief holes must be free of debris.
Lubricate the camshaft with Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent.
Carefully install the camshaft to prevent damage to the camshaft bearings (Fig. 43).
Position the thrust plate and install the retaining screws. Tighten screws to 24 Nm (18 ft.lbs.) .
Install the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket with the timing marks aligned.
Install the camshaft sprocket bolt/cup washer. Tighten the bolt to 68 Nm (50 ft.lbs.) .
Fig. 44
Install the timing case cover with a replacement oil seal (Fig. 44). Refer to Timing Case Cover Installation.
Install the vibration damper (Fig. 44).
Install the hydraulic valve tappets.
Install the cylinder head gasket with the numbers facing up.
Install the cylinder head and head bolts (Refer to Cylinder Head; Removal and Installtion for torque values and tightening sequence).
Install the push rods.
Install the rocker arms and pivot and bridge assemblies. Tighten each of the capscrews for each bridge alternately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the bridge.
Install the engine cylinder head cover.
Position the oil pump gear. Refer to Powertrain Management; Ignition Systems.
Install the distributor and ignition wires. Refer to Powertrain Management; Ignition Systems.
Install the serpentine drive belt and tighten to the specified tension. NOTE: During installation, lubricate the hydraulic valve tappets and all valve components with Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. The Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent must remain with the engine oil for at least 1609 km (1,000 miles). The oil supplement need not be drained until the next scheduled oil change.
Install the A/C condenser and receiver/drier assembly, if equipped (refer to Heating and Air Conditioning). CAUTION: Both service valves must be opened before the air conditioning system is operated.
Install the radiator, connect the hoses and fill the cooling system to the specified level (refer to Cooling System for the proper procedure).
Check the ignition timing and adjust as necessary.
Install the grille and bumper, if removed.
Connect negative cable to battery.Jeep 4.0, cam change, completely remove the head or can you just take out the distributor and pushrods?Yeah, if it was a V8, on most all of them you could just pull off the intake manifold to get at the lifters. About the only straight 6 I can think of that you might be able to avoid taking off the head, is I think you could do that from the access cover on the side of the old Ford 300 ci motor.
So basically, the head, all the stuff on the front of the motor, and the radiator and grill are gonna have to go. Unless you got some pretty large passages above the lifters, that are big enough to lift them through with an extractor tool.
I think this is the one I have.
http://www.kd-tools.com/2114.htm
